Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium and Mahonia nervosa, the genus also named Berberis), which grows plentifully in our northwest forests, might not seem like a natural for home gardens. But as we’re constantly reminded, it’s smart to go with more native plants: they’re best adapted to our climate, and native bees and butterflies are programmed to use them for habitat and food. If your garden needs a hedge, instead of planting laurel or arbor vitae that will grow too tall and wide, do this: “arrange tall Oregon grape in an imperfect line—it not only needs little pruning, it’s an overachiever when it comes to providing berries and blossoms for our feathered friends and pollinators.” (Stark, Real Gardens Grow Natives).
Oregon grape has branches and bark that are yellow inside, and pointy-edged leaflets like holly (but not as prickly, and certainly not invasive). Its two main species are tall Oregon grape (M. aquifolium), which can grow to 4 - 6 feet, and dwarf or dull Oregon grape (M. nervosa), to 2 feet. Be advised that “tall” and “dwarf” don’t always suffice to distinguish them. Leaf structure helps, however: tall O.g. has 5 to 9 leaflets per leaf that are glossier than those of dwarf O.g., which has up to 19 leaflets. Both varieties sport bright yellow flowers in spring, ripening into clusters of dusty dark-blue berries, which have been especially plentiful this year.
The berries are edible yet quite tart, so indigenous people mixed them with salal berries. Today, you can make Oregon grape jelly, using 2 cups Oregon-grape juice, 2 cups salal juice, 5 cups sugar, and one box pectin crystals. Indigenous people used the shredded bark of stems and roots to make a yellow dye for baskets. The bark and berries also served as medicine; O.g. speeds the healing of intestinal infections and acts mainly on the liver, skin, and digestion. But it was used with caution, as the alkaloid berberine (responsible for its yellow color) is toxic in bigger doses.
For more on medicinal uses of Northwest plants, consult the excellent book by Scott Kloos, Pacific Northwest Medicinal Plants (Timber Press, 2017).
Hansville Log Articles
Buck Lake Garden articles published in the monthly Hansville Log highlight seasonal activity in the garden.
Oregon Grape
Evergreen Native Groundcovers
Native plants offer plenty of good possibilities for groundcovers you can cultivate at the edge of a garden bed or woodland path. Here are a few evergreen choices.
For locations that get full sun, consider Oregon stonecrop (Sedum oreganum) and broadleaf stonecrop (Sedum spathulifolium). These ground-hugging evergreen perennials thrive in the Northwest, and form a beautiful succulent carpet. S. oreganum turns reddish as summer advances. Yellow starry flowers spring up from both varieties, beckoning area bees and butterflies.
Also for sun, there’s the iconic kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), and who doesn’t like to say kinnikinnick? A low-creeping shrub seldom more than 6 inches high, kinnikinnick (aka bearberry) has paddle-shaped leaves and clusters of pinkish-white flowers followed by bright red berries. Spreads slowly, worth the wait.
For shade evergreens: first, there’s Brewer’s miterwort (Mitella breweri). Mitella has become a favorite for bordering paths in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden. It prefers good soil and grows to 3”, and sends up a thin “flower” spike in spring. If you want to curb its spread, just cut off the spikes before they disperse their seeds.
Or consider goldthread (Coptis laciniata and C. aspleniifolia). In the wild, Coptis grows in wet understory habitats. Its leaves look somewhat like those of buttercups, with a stemlike inflorescence of lovely lacy filaments.
Finally, there’s the lush false lily of the valley (Maianthemum dilatatum) (as distinct from nonnative, toxic lily of the valley). Each 3-4” stem bears two broad heart-shaped leaves and a spiky cluster of tiny white flowers, then red berries. The plant develops an extensive underground root system and spreads readily given the right shady conditions.
Attract Butterflies with Native Plants
Native plants are essential to the majority of the roughly 160 butterfly species (Lepidoptera) that occur in Washington State. A definitive list of plants used by larvae (butterflies in their caterpillar stage) and adults, is available at https://wabutterflyassoc.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Butterflies-and-... .
Butterflies don’t just need food to survive and reproduce. They also need host plants for laying eggs, plants for their larvae to eat, and protection during winter. Trees tend to be most important, but many butterflies rely on wildflowers, grasses, and shrubs as hosts for their larval phase. Some, like monarchs and red admirals, can use only a single species. For example, monarch caterpillars require milkweed as their host plants; red admirals and the Satyr comma lay their eggs only on stinging nettles. Washington’s three spectacular Tiger Swallowtail species use chokecherry, Ceanothus, oceanspray, serviceberry, willows, and maples as caterpillar host plants.
Flying requires lots of energy, so butterflies must locate high-energy food sources such as nectar-producing flowers. A wide variety of flowers, including many popular garden and landscape plants, can provide their nectar. Brightly-colored, fragrant plants are particularly attractive. Plants with flower heads that contain small multiple florets, such as those found on asters, furnish convenient landing pads, allowing butterflies to rest and sip nectar and do some pollinating in the bargain.
Some ornamental flowering plants have been hybridized to produce showy flowers. Unfortunately, these hybrids may not be good sources of nectar, so make sure to go native if you want to be a good host to butterflies.
Make a butterfly puddle in your garden, consisting of sand (to which you can add compost) with indentations for water. Your puddle can be in the ground or in a dish or shallow bowl, and should be in direct sunlight, preferably near flowers. Butterflies will appreciate this rest stop for the liquid and minerals they need.
Devil's club
Some native plants are so particular that they rarely adapt to the efforts of gardeners. One example of a species that resists living in captivity is Devil’s club (Opoplanax horridus).
Devil’s club is usually found growing in Northwest forests next to streams in part shade. It’s a fearsome creature, covered in sharp thorns, frankly prehistoric-looking, with gangly stalks that can reach ten feet in height, and with large palmate leaves topped by pyramid-shaped green flowers that form into cones of red berries in summer.
Coast Salish people consider Devil’s club sacred; they’ve used it since time immemorial for medicine, drumsticks and walking sticks, beads, and spiritual protection. Pieces of dried stalk, wrapped in red cloth and attached above doors and windows, are said to keep harm away. Compounds in the inner bark are antimicrobial and antifungal; when topically applied as a salve, Devil’s club treats ailments including arthritis and eczema. The plant’s therapeutic uses have not been confirmed by medical science; and especially when taken internally it may be harmful to some people. Remember: it’s strong medicine. With its prickly self-protection and healing powers, it deserves greatest respect.
If you plant Devil’s club at the fringes of your garden, make sure it’s located next to fresh water. Slugs love Devil’s club, completely unfazed by its thorns; be ready to deal with them or they will obliterate the plant!
Take a walk in the woods with the Kitsap County Native Plants group (find them on Facebook) to see the wonders of native plants in our area that proudly resist human cultivation.
The Beautiful Dogwood Family
Our Pacific dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) has just about finished blooming, but what a year it’s been for their splendid flowers! The dogwood family comes in all sizes, from tree to shrub to groundcover, and you can see them in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden. Why not plant a native Cornus in your own garden?
Naturally-occurring Pacific dogwood trees are susceptible to a fungus aptly named Discula destructiva. But two recent cultivars of C. nuttallii are much less vulnerable to disease. The BLNPG has a dazzling “Eddie’s White Wonder,” heartily recommended for your garden. Another variety is the “Venus” dogwood, a cross between native C. nuttallii and C. kousa. Its flowers can grow up to six inches across. (With Mother’s Day coming up, either would make a great gift.) Dogwood isn’t normally happy in full sun, especially the hot summer sun we’ve been getting--light shade preferred.
Skipping over the dogwood shrubs (more on them in a future report), the smallest version of Cornus native to our area is bunchberry (C. canadensis, 6-8” tall), which makes a charming groundcover in a woodland garden. Bunchberry’s white blossoms in spring and bright red berries in late summer can lay a blanket of color onto a corner of your garden, and you can pick berries and pop them in your mouth on the spot.
Like red huckleberry, which tends to grow out of old tree stumps, bunchberry thrives in the company of rotting wood. Include a piece or two of decaying wood at the bottom of your planting hole. Bunchberry requires acidic, well-drained moist soil, and mostly shade (but some sun in order to bloom).
For more info on the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden, visit www.bucklakegarden.com or check us out on Facebook. The garden is always open and free to the public. Better yet, come volunteer at work parties, every 1st and 3rd Monday morning, 9-12.
April is Native Plant Appreciation Month
April is Native Plant Appreciation Month--and so much is happening! Here’s a list of ways to participate.
1. It’s a beautiful time to stroll through the Native Plant Garden. Everything is wildly blooming.
--The next work party in the BLNPG is Monday April 15, 9 – 12. Bring gardening gloves. (Warning: the work parties are addictive.) There’s something to do for folks of every age and fitness level.
-- April 17, 1 – 4 pm: Guided walk through the Garden, plus Trillium Forest hike thru the Hansville Greenway. Co-sponsored by WNPS & Kitsap County Native Plants group. Preregister: email kommer2010@outlook.com .
2. WNPS (Washington Native Plant Society) has many April events, both in-person and on Zoom, including field trips and talks. A sample of their many recorded webinars available: “Landscaping with Native Plants,” “Resilient Gardens for Uncertain Futures,” “Washington’s Bumblebees and other Native Pollinators”… Visit their website, wnps.org.
3. Kitsap County Native Plants is a year-old group (on Facebook) with boundless enthusiasm, congeniality, and knowledge. Join one of their frequent rambles to ogle Kitsap’s rich biodiversity. Open to all.
4. If you’re in or near Poulsbo, check out Poulsbo’s Fish Park (info page on Facebook). April 20: Earth Day in the park, 10 – 2! Events for the family, celebration of Mother Earth and also Fish Park’s 20th birthday.
5. The Kitsap Great Give is April 16. Donate to your favorite Kitsap nonprofits, and make your money go farther because of matching funds. Please consider including the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden in your generosity. https://www.kitsapgreatgive.org/giving-events/kgg24
6. Finally, download a plant identification app to your smartphone. One of our favorites is PictureThis—you just go into the app, snap a picture of an unknown plant you encounter, and it identifies the plant and gives info about it. Many local nature groups use another great app, iNaturalist, which allows sharing and inventories of species.
Silktassel
Our recent freezing weather provides an opportunity to replace lost plants with new native plants. Select plants that are zone hardy and match the existing conditions of your specific site. Give consideration to plants that are drought tolerant, summer heat tolerant, pollinator friendly, and bearing attractive flowers and/or fruit.
A terrific one to consider is silktassel (Garrya), not yet very common in our area. It’s a broadleaf evergreen with leathery ovoid leaves, growing to 4-8 feet, and is a very early bloomer, producing long catkins of tiny flowers starting in January. Silktassel is a handsome addition to your garden: its pendant catkins are uniquely cool; it’s well suited to our changing climate, and grows in full sun to part shade. G. elliptica’s leaves have wavy edges, while G. fremontii’s leaves and catkins are smaller (but it grows taller). G. fremontii sprouts after fire and other disturbances, and is more drought-tolerant than elliptica. You can find two G. elliptica in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden.
Silktassel is dioecious, meaning plants are either male or female. Plants of both sexes must be present for female plants to be pollinated and to fruit. The fruits come in purple berrylike clusters in the summer. Eilleen Stark (Real Gardens Grow Natives, 2014) writes that its “fruits may be eaten by birds such as robins and towhees, and mammals such as grey foxes. Sprouts are browsed by deer. Provides evergreen cover for various birds and mammals, especially during winter.”
Interested in learning more about gardening with native plants? Come join a work party in the BLNPG, held every first and third Monday from 9am-12 starting in April. Visit the website at www.bucklakegarden.com or check us out on Facebook.
Drought-tolerant Natives for Our Evolving Climate - III
Now that we’ve entered the cold, damp time of year, it may be a stretch to recall how hot and dry our summers have become and to help your garden accommodate to that reality—but now is the time to plan for more drought-tolerant natives and attracting pollinators.
We’ve already listed some favorite trees and shrubs; this month we suggest other plants. Remember, you can view all of these in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden. Info comes from Eileen Stark’s Real Gardens Grow Natives (Mountaineers, 2014).
Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): evergreen ground cover with small, paddle-shaped leaves. Stems root where they touch the ground. Spreads slowly. Urn-shaped flowers in spring, bright red berries persist into winter.
Media manzanita is a hybrid between kinnikinnick and hairy manzanita, about a foot tall.
Orange honeysuckle (Lonicera ciliosa): vine with spectacular orange-yellow flowers, popular with hummingbirds, bees, butterflies, and us! Wonderful in gardens, weaving through shrubs or growing up a trellis or fence.
Stonecrop (Sedum oreganum): succulent ground cover, leaves vary in color. Yellow flowers burst forth in summer.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): this native perennial blooms throughout summer and is a favorite of pollinators—and one of ours too. In nature, flowers are white; hybrids come in delicious colors—salmon, paprika, red wine…
Photos, in order: Kinnikinnick, orange honeysuckle, stonecrop, one of the magnificent colors of hybrid yarrow.
Drought-Tolerant Natives for Our Evolving Climate - II
Here is the second part of a three-part article about the changing climate, the evolving definition of “native” plants, and how to adapt your garden to drier and hotter conditions. We've already listed some native trees that will do well—Douglas fir, Garry oak, incense cedar, and madrona, and we identified some drought-tolerant native shrubs: manzanita, ocean spray, salal, and silktassel.
Here are more shrubs to consider. Remember, plants listed here can be seen in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden—come visit to get ideas. All these native shrubs are host to pollinators and birds. Info taken from Eileen Stark’s Real Gardens Grow Natives (Mountaineers, 2014). In part III, watch for a list of drought-tolerant ground covers and other plants.
Mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii) -- Deciduous, with sweetly fragrant showy white flowers.
Red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) – Lacy creamy flowers bloom spring to summer, followed by beautiful clusters of red berries (not for eating).
Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) Bluish-green leaves turn yellow to red in fall; feathery white flowers are followed by tasty blueberry-like fruit relished by wildlife and humans.
Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) has tiny pink flowers, then produces white berries (not edible, but pretty) that remain on the bush through the winter.
Shrubby cinquefoil (Dasiphora fruiticosa, formerly Potentilla) One of our favorites because its bright yellow flowers bloom all summer. Lovely addition to any garden.
Tall Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) A Northwest icon, with its shiny spiked leaves. Enjoy striking yellow flowers in spring, and then eat its deep-blue berries in summer.
(Photos below, in order: mock orange, red elderberry, serviceberry, snowberry, shrubby cinquefoil, tall Oregon grape.)
Drought-Tolerant Natives for Our Evolving Climate (I)
North Kitsap’s forests and gardens are drier than ever this summer, and climatologists are predicting this climate will prevail from now on. So it makes sense to rethink your garden (if you haven’t already done so) for drought tolerance. Given the Northwest’s traditional weather, are there native plants and trees that can adapt to the changing conditions?
Yes. But first, reconsider what constitutes “native.” Even in our lifetimes, warmer and drier conditions are altering Western Washington’s ecosystem, and the plants are responding. Hemlock trees are dying out; red cedar and others will follow. Many plants and trees are finding it easier to survive by migrating northward to Canada. In turn, many other species are moving up this way from California. It’s time to expand the notion of “native” to include species from farther south which are establishing themselves here.
Most of the trees and shrubs listed below can be seen in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden. Consider them for your own garden. Unless otherwise noted, these grow in full sun to light shade. All are host to pollinators and birds. Info taken from Eileen Stark’s invaluable book, Real Gardens Grow Natives (Mountaineers, 2014). Next month, we’ll describe additional shrubs and other drought-tolerant plants.
Drought-tolerant TREES:
Douglas Fir (pseudotsuga menziesii), the iconic NW evergreen, prefers our traditional cool climate but can adapt to dry warm conditions. Hosts to many mammals and birds. Sun to partial shade.
Garry Oak (Quercus garryana), our only native oak. Slow-growing, reaches about 25 feet in 20 years, can grow to about 50 feet.
Incense cedar (Calocedrus decurrens), tall, aromatic, and handsome evergreen, named for the odor released when its leaves are damaged. More heat- and drought- tolerant than Western red cedar.
Madrona (Arbutus menziesii), deciduous broadleaf evergreen tree with dense wood and thin orange bark. Fragrant white flowers in spring. “Endearing, spectacular wildlife magnet.” One drawback to consider: it’s messy, sheds leaves and bark at various times during the year.
Some drought-tolerant SHRUBS:
Manzanita (Arctostaphylos), attractive, slow-growing evergreen shrub, with grayish-green, thick hairy leaves. Matures to 5-7 feet tall.
Oceanspray (Holodiscus discolor), versatile deciduous shrub that blooms for a long period and is especially important for butterflies. Oceanspray’s fabulous creamy-white flowers are visible along the Hansville Road in spring and into summer.
Salal (Gaultheria shallon), low evergreen shrub, prefers partial shade. Has small rounded bell-like small flowers in rows, followed by fruit that resembles blueberries (but not as tasty). Grows 3-4 ft tall, and spreads easily but is also easily tamed back. A haven for butterflies, bees, many other insects and birds.
Silktassel (Garrya fremontii) (not elliptica). Attractive shrub with glossy evergreen leaves, grows to 8-10 feet. The long, pendant catkins begin their graceful show in winter when nothing else is blooming.
Volunteering in the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden is an ideal way to broaden your knowledge and contribute to the beautiful Hansville community! Work parties are every 1st and 3rd Monday thru October, 9-12--you’re so welcome and appreciated. Visit our website: www.bucklakegarden.com. For more on native plants locally, check out our Facebook page, Buck Lake Native Plant Garden--and also a new FB page full of activity, Kitsap County Native Plants.
Shrubs, for Wildlife and Humans
Some highly desirable shrubs and small trees support wildlife in ways that might not be obvious.
Take ocean spray (Holodiscus discolor). Its dried seedheads hang on through the winter and attract insects. The insects provide winter and spring food for birds, especially baby birds needing lots of protein. Ocean spray has dense branching, so when the shrub leafs out early in spring, it provides nesting habitat and cover for many birds, mammals, and amphibians--all this even before it flowers or sets seeds.
The beautiful flowers—so aptly named for their showy cascading white clusters--support bees and butterflies. The foliage feeds the caterpillar stage for several popular butterflies, and it is browsed by deer.
Ocean spray was heavily used by indigenous people for its wood—it is also called ironwood because of its hardness and strength. Salish people used it to make digging sticks, spear and harpoon shafts, bows and arrow shafts, and paddles. The Lummi used the flowers as an antidiarrheal and the leaves as a poultice.
Ocean spray flourishes along the Hansville Road, May through July—it’s one of the more glorious summer sights as you drive there. Gardens can use it in a hedgerow or on a slope—it’s good for stabilizing slopes and preventing erosion. It can grow to about 15 feet, in sun to partial shade.
Another native that benefits wildlife is red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa). A tall treelike shrub, it’s abundant in our area (black elderberry, the one more commonly used for syrup and jellies, is generally found on the other side of the Cascades). The red berries, though small and seedy, were an important food for people of the central and northern coast, although they are little used today. They should always be cooked. Indigenous people used the roots to rub into the skin for aching, tired muscles. Caches of red elderberries have been found in archaeological sites dating back hundreds of years. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds, and the fruits are popular with birds.
Observe and Learn
‘Tis the season to be outside: nature is showing off in all her glory. But it’s also a good time to slow down and observe. The Native Plant Garden’s Mary Booth has some suggestions for ways to make fresh acquaintance with your natural surroundings:
Take a leisurely walk with intention, to see how flora and fauna around you are interacting. What captures your interest? What flowers, butterflies, birds, insects do you see, and how are they behaving? Take notes as you observe. Record the date, what you see in bloom, what colors seem to be attracting the bees (beautiful native blue ceanothus was out a month ago, and its legions of happy bees sounded like a loud avant-garde piece for string orchestra); your notes can become a valuable resource for use in your own garden.
What setting have you chosen (a meadow, near a stream, in woodland shade)? What plants readily grow there? Do some appear to grow near or under others? What kind of soil do they thrive in?
What insects and birds do you see, and what are they attracted to? Cedar waxwings were recently gorging on Oregon grape berries. Who is eating the elderberries? You might see a bird carrying twigs or bark or lichen, flying toward a place it’s building a nest—or, if her eggs have hatched, perhaps she’s gathering insects or worms for her young.
What do you hear in the trees that you might not be able to see? The Cornell Ornithology Lab has a wonderful app called MERLIN that allows you to identify a bird from its call, simply by holding the phone up toward the sound you hear.
Intentional, mindful observation allows us to perceive the synergy between native plants and wildlife. It’s also great for our blood pressure and our knowledge (and love) of the world around us.
Want to volunteer at the Native Plant Garden? Come to a work party. They’re on the first & third Monday morning of each month thru October, 9am-12. Website: www.bucklakegarden.com ; Facebook page: Buck Lake Native Plant Garden. Take the Hansville Garden Tour on July 8 (10 am – 4 pm), which benefits Hansville Helping Hands—one ticket entitles you to visit a half dozen gorgeous gardens at your own pace, including the BLNPG. (For info and tickets, Google “Hansville Helping Hands Garden Tour 2023.”)
Propagating with Seed
Beautiful orange native columbine is springing up from seed I was given and threw on the ground last fall. I haven’t had much experience with seeds, and want to know more. Here’s what a little research, plus advice from experts, yields about some basics of collecting and using seeds.
It takes planning: you’re reading this in June so you can be ready in the next 2-3 months to collect and store or sow seeds.
Mother Nature is the big expert. In nature, when seeds are ripe, they drop, fly away in the wind on wings, explode and shoot, stick to clothes or to fur, or get picked up by any number of creatures including ants. Birds and larger animals transport them to new places and deposit them complete with their own “fertilizer packets.” Many seeds are programmed to sit on the ground and go through the winter cold (or even two winters) before they can germinate in spring.
You can imitate Nature and also have some control over where seeds land and germinate. If you have self-seeding plants like columbine and lupine, leave bare earth around them in late summer so their seeds have room to do their thing.
In general: collect seed on a dry day, as soon as seedheads ripen (indicated by color change, usually green to brown). Further drying will often cause them to open so the seeds are easily shaken out and collected. Timing of seed maturity varies according to the plant, but is generally late summer to late autumn. Seeds come in many packages: different plants have their seeds in nuts, cones, pods, catkins, capsules, and berries.
The plants you collect seeds from should be healthy and vigorous, otherwise the seeds may not be viable.
You should know that seedlings from seeds you get from a hybrid plant will be extremely variable, and can revert to their “true” species.
The easiest and most natural method for propagating from seed is to pick a shady cool location on your property, put the seeds in the ground there, and cover lightly—the wire mesh of an old window screen can protect seeds and seedlings from birds, foraging rodents and other pests and weeds.
Generally, the smaller the seeds, the more shallowly you should sow them. Some of the smallest can simply be scattered on the soil surface. Rake the soil lightly to loosen it, scatter the seeds, and rake again to cover them.
If you want to collect and store:
Don’t collect immature seeds. Many seeds will continue to ripen as they dry, but if you collect them before they have completely formed, they will not mature and produce viable seed. They should be fully formed and starting to dry.
Pick the seedheads and lay them out to dry on a greenhouse bench or warm windowsill. Remove the seedheads on their stems as they turn brown. After extracting the seed, clean off any surrounding material (chaff) attached to them, as this material can rot or harbor pests and diseases, and place into a labeled paper bag or envelope. Make sure to label everything as you go: indicate the plant name and variety, and date collected. If you wait until you can spread everything out to identify your seeds, headaches will ensue.
Storing over the winter: Seeds need moisture, warmth, and light to germinate, so give them the exact opposite for storing--a dry, cool, dark environment such as a corner shelf in the garage, basement, closet, or in the rear of a refrigerator. Place your seeds in envelopes or paper bags and keep them in glass jars. If you have any silica packets around, throw one into your seed storage container to absorb moisture.
Whether to store seeds in your garage or plant to overwinter on the ground depends on the plant. Find info online, OR: come to BLNPG Monday work parties and ask! (upcoming work party days: 6/5, 6/19, 7/3, 7/17.) Or find Robin Rose’s book Propagation of Pacific Northwest Native Plants (OSU Press, 1998).
Welcoming Pollinators and Birds
This year, spring took a long time to arrive: April was almost over before the thermometer reached 60 degrees for the first time. Nevertheless, the blossoming started--nature’s irrepressible clock was ticking away.
Here are some considerations for the health of your native garden and its creatures. Normally we think only about plants, but you’re encouraged to enlarge the picture and consider the fauna in your garden. Bees, wasps, butterflies, beetles, hummingbirds and other birds are an essential part of the ecosystem as pollinators. Pollen sticks to the bodies of pollinators when they feed on nectar, a sugary fluid produced by flowering plants. The pollinators transfer pollen grains from plant to plant, et voilà, this fertilizes flowers and allows them to produce fruit and seeds.
To support pollinators, a garden should provide sources of nectar. Some early native bloomers to feed insects are manzanita, kinnikinnick, red-flowering currant, Indian plum, salmonberry, willow, fawn lily (our favorite early spring bloom), and tall Oregon grape.
Be a friend to baby birds, too. Their parents must find protein for them as soon as they hatch, so in the wilder and messier parts of your garden, nurture protein sources (caterpillars make delicious meals, as do insects and worms). Birds also need nest-building material, and the fledglings need safe places to hang out in, such as in foliage of trees and shrubs; holes made by sapsuckers in some trees (particularly paper birch) are also ideal places.
Welcome Wildness!
Carve out an area in your garden to give nature the upper hand. Let it be messy. Maybe just a small corner to start, but a wild hedgerow along a boundary could be even better. Allow shrubs, herbs, flowering plants to grow. Allow insects to have free reign. Add some nettles to nourish butterfly caterpillars. (You can find nettles in many moist places and dig them up--make sure you‘re wearing good gloves.)
This area will support many kinds of wildlife. Remember that baby birds are fed mostly on protein, which means insects, slugs, worms. Keep a pathway to separate your wild area from your regular garden.
The bloom time for many plants has been altered this spring by our unusually cold and wet winter. But we encourage you to visit our Native Plant Garden where you will hopefully see some favorite spring flowers: red flowering currant, native dogwood tree, manzanita, charming little fawn lily (erythronium—you’ll find them a few feet west of the bench & sidechair area).
KITSAP’s GREAT GIVE is April 11 this year, coming right up! This is how you can contribute to your favorite organizations that work so hard during the year to make justice, opportunity, and beauty for all. Keep the Buck Lake Native Plant Garden in mind—we depend on your generosity.
The BLNPG welcomes everyone to our WORK PARTIES, 1st & 3rd Mondays, April thru October, 9am to noon. Learn about gardening with native plants, get your hands in the dirt, meet like-minded people as you work. Bring gardening gloves.